Once aboard the 72-passenger Wilderness Discoverer, we checked out our stateroom. Cruise ship cabins are smaller than hotel rooms, and this was the most compact we had seen -- imagine sleeping arrangements inside a small camper. A mirrored door led to the toilet with a shower head above in a closet-sized room. Our daughter, after one look, said, "This is so cool."

After a smooth evening sail, we were anchored off the fishing village of Petersburg the next day. Mega-ships can't navigate its narrow passageway, so it's not touristy with T-shirt shops on every corner. A large segment of the population is descended from the original Norwegian settlers. Some residents speak Norwegian and their houses are decorated with colorful floral motif paintings.

Sharon, the ship's Children's Program director, led a group of us on a nature hike. We saw a pair of bald eagles, colorful starfish, sea urchins, ribbon worms, butter clams, periwinkle and crabs down by the tide line. Later while on a salmon cannery factory tour, we watched workers cut salmon into strips in preparation for smoking. After the tour we sampled smoked salmon, salmon sausage and salmon dip spread on crackers.

Before dinner, Saren, another naturalist on board, alerted us to a pod of Dali porpoises on the port side of the ship. We grabbed our binoculars and enjoyed watching these playful black and white mammals frolic in the ship's wake.

Beautiful Days

• We awoke the next morning to another rare day of sunshine and warm weather. Surrounded by cliffs more than 2500 feet above the water, we sailed up to one of the most dramatic fjords in Alaska, Tracy Arm. Approaching our first glacier at South Sawyer Glacier, we watched harbor seals lying with their pups on ice floes, and mountain goats walking along the peaks of the cliffs. Suddenly we heard the noise of a gunshot, but were told it was the glacier cracking. A minute later the aquamarine-colored ice cracked and came crashing down into the water with an huge splash.
• After lunch, we sailed into the calm Sanford Cove for our first attempt at kayaking. While paddling, we watched a group of black crows chase an eagle away from their nesting area.
• Another day, after breakfast, we disembarked at the historical town of Haines and walked up to Fort Seward (the only WWII Army post in Alaska). A scenic twenty-minute ferry ride took us to the old gold rush town of Skagway. Four mega-ships and two smaller ships were docked in the harbor. On any day during cruise season, over 10,000 cruisers tramp down the narrow sidewalks and streets buying gold nuggets and souvenirs.
• A dramatic three-hour ride on the White Pass and Yukon train took us to White Pass Summit near the U.S.-Canada border. It was pricey, but the scenery was definitely worthwhile.
• The following day, we hiked along the Forest Loop Trail to Glacier Bay Lodge. A park ranger led an evening program and slide show on the beauty of Glacier Bay National Park.
• Entering Margerie Glacier and John Hopkins inlet we watched tufted puffin swim among harbor seals as the seals fed their pups. Later we followed some humpback whales and counted nearly fifty breaching out of the water. While passing the ABC islands, furry sea otters floated on their backs and cracked clam shells on their tummies.

On our last day we anchored in Katlian Bay and kayaked near small islands. With the tide out we could see colorful starfish as large as dinner plates. After a delicious Captain's Dinner, we went back out into the glassy bay to watch the sunset at around 10:30pm.

Richard gave us our last wakeup call as we docked in Sitka. By 8am we shook hands and hugged the 56 passengers and 27 crew members who had helped make out 7-day cruise one to remember.

Cruising is the ultimate way for families to travel great distances in the North Pacific. The wildlife and scenery of Alaska are awe-inspiring and thought-provoking for all ages.